Recipes created for the Irish Food Writers’ Guild Food Awards 2020 by executive head chef Gareth Mullins of The Marker,
Grand Canal Square, Dublin 2.
TEELING POT STILL WHISKEY SPRING CUP
40ml Teeling Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey
50ml white lemonade
ice cubes, to serve
For the rhubarb cordial:
600g rhubarb, chopped
200g granulated sugar
For the garnish:
1 Granny Smith apple slice
1 orange slice
1 pink grapefruit or lemon slice
fresh mint sprig
To make the rhubarb cordial, place the chopped rhubarb in a saucepan. Add just enough water to cover the rhubarb and bring to the boil. Boil until the rhubarb is soft, then strain the mixture into a jug through a fine mesh sieve. Pour the strained juice back into the pan, then add the sugar and heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boiling point, then skim, remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
To make the spring cup, add ice to a highball glass. Add the whiskey and 25ml of the rhubarb cordial. Add a slice of apple, orange and pink grapefruit and one or two fresh raspberries and blueberries. Top up with white lemonade and stir gently with a bar spoon, taking care not to crush the fruit. Add a fresh sprig of mint to the top of the glass and serve.
SHINE'S WILD IRISH TUNA NICOISE SALAD, QUAIL EGG
2 x 210g jars of Shine’s Wild Irish Tuna
4 new potatoes, peeled
100g fine green beans
4 quail eggs
pinch of celery salt
4 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and cut into strips
50g pitted black olives, halved
fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish
good-quality extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
For the aioli:
1 egg yolk
¼ garlic clove, minced
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1½ tsp white wine vinegar
100ml olive oil
Carefully remove the tuna from the jars, trying not to break up the pieces too much, and place in a strainer. Reserve the oil for the aioli.
To make the aioli, put the egg yolk, garlic, mustard and vinegar in a large bowl and whisk together. Gradually incorporate the oil that you drained off the tuna plus the extra 100ml, adding it in a slow, steady stream and whisking constantly until emulsified into a mayonnaise.
Boil the new potatoes until tender, then drain and cut in halves or slices.
Top and tail the green beans, then blanch briefly in boiling salted water. Drain, then rinse under cold water to stop them cooking further.
Cook the quail eggs in boiling water for 3 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and refresh in iced water. Allow to cool, then carefully peel and cut a slice off the bottom of each one so that they will stand upright.
To serve, add a small dollop of aioli to each plate, then nestle a quail egg on top and sprinkle with a pinch of celery salt. Arrange the green beans, tomatoes and olives together on one section of the plate, then add the potatoes alongside. Add a few strips of tuna on the last clear section of the plate, then garnish with a few leaves of parsley. Finally, drizzle over a good-quality olive oil to finish the dish.
INCH HOUSE TRADITIONAL BLACK PUDDING AND CHICKEN PITHIVIER, CELERIAC PUREE, BROWN SAUCE
300g Inch House Traditional Black Pudding, diced into 5mm pieces
150g chicken thighs, finely diced
150g chicken fillet, finely diced
2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
400g ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry, cut into 8 x 12cm disks
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
jus, to serve
For the brown sauce:
splash of olive oil
1 small onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and chopped
100g pitted prunes
50g dark brown sugar
300ml tomato ketchup
50ml soy sauce
50ml sherry vinegar
1 tbsp fennel seeds
salt and pepper
For the celeriac purée:
200g celeriac, peeled and cubed
To make the brown sauce, heat the oil in a saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 2 minutes, until softened but not coloured. Add the garlic and chilli and sauté for 2 minutes, then add the raisins, prunes, brown sugar, ketchup, soy sauce, vinegar and fennel seeds and season well with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a few minutes to combine all the flavours. Place in a food processer and purée until smooth.
To make the celeriac purée, place all the ingredients in a heavy-based saucepan and cover with a lid. Cook over a low heat until the celeriac is tender, then purée in a food processer until smooth.
To make the pithivier, preheat the oven to 220°C. Line two large baking sheets with non-stick baking paper.
Mix the black pudding and chicken together, then season well with salt and pepper. Stir in the chopped parsley and tarragon.
Place four of the pastry discs on the lined baking sheets (two on each sheet) and top with a neat mound of the black pudding and chicken mix, leaving a 1cm border clear all around. Brush the clean pastry border with the beaten egg yolks, then cover with the second pastry disc. Press down the edge to seal the pastry discs together, then brush the top with the remaining egg wash. Pierce the top of the tart to allow the steam to escape, then score eight lines in the pastry, radiating out from the top like a pinwheel.
Bake in the preheated oven for 15–18 minutes, until the pastry is golden and the core temperature is about 75°C.
To serve, spoon a small circle of celeriac purée into the middle of a wide, shallow bowl, then add the pithivier and place a small spoonful of the brown sauce on top. Carefully pour the jus around the outer edge of the celeriac purée.
Steamed Fillet of Brill, Hederman Hot Smoked Salmon, Asparagus, Seaweed
4 x 140g fillets of brill
12 spears of asparagus, peeled and woody ends snapped off
4 x 40g portions of Hederman Hot Smoked Salmon,
each portion cut into two diamonds
fresh dill sprigs
For the beurre blanc:
2 shallots, finely chopped
60ml white wine
60ml white wine vinegar
125g cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
½ cucumber, peeled, deseeded and finely diced
2 tbsp chopped dried dillisk
salt and freshly ground white pepper
To make the beurre blanc, place the shallots, wine, vinegar and water in a saucepan set over a medium heat. Simmer until almost no liquid remains. Turn the heat down to low, then whisk in the butter one piece at a time, allowing each piece to melt and emulsify before adding the next. It’s a good idea to occasionally take the pan off the heat, then return it when it’s becoming too cool, so that the sauce doesn’t split. Once all the butter has been added, the sauce should be pale and have a thin, custard-like consistency. Stir in the cucumber and seaweed, then season to taste with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Keep warm.
Steam the brill in a steamer basket for 4–6 minutes, then season with sea salt.
Steam the asparagus spears for 3–4 minutes, then season.
To serve, spoon the beurre blanc into the middle of a plate, then add the steamed brill on top. Add three asparagus spears to each plate, then two of the smoked salmon pieces. Garnish with small sprigs of fresh dill on top of each piece of salmon.
Joyce Timmins’s Apple Bavarois, Apple Ganache, Apple Sponge
For the coconut dacquoise base:
100g icing sugar
40g coconut flour
30g plain flour
35g ground almonds
90g egg whites
50g caster sugar
pinch of salt
For the apple sponge:
40g ground almonds
40g icing sugar
20g apple purée
120g plain flour
30g egg whites
40g caster sugar
squeeze of lemon juice
For the apple syrup:
200ml apple juice
For the apple ganache:
1 gelatine leaf
90g green apple purée
juice of ½ lime
65g white chocolate, melted
For the apple bavarois:
1 gelatine sheet
75g apple purée
2 eggs whites
30g caster sugar
90g fresh cream
To serve (optional):
finely crumbled shortbread
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line two large baking trays with non-stick baking paper.
To make the coconut dacquoise base, sieve the icing sugar, flours and ground almonds together into a bowl. In a separate large, clean, dry bowl, whip the egg whites, caster sugar and a pinch of salt together until soft peaks form. Fold in the dry ingredients, then spread out on one of the lined trays and bake in the preheated oven for 6 minutes.
To make the apple sponge, put the eggs, ground almonds, icing sugar and apple purée in a food processor and blend to a smooth, frothy mixture, then stir in the flour. In a separate clean, dry bowl, whisk the egg whites and caster sugar together, then whisk in the lemon juice. Spread on the second lined baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes. Cool down fast to preserve its softness.
To make the apple syrup, boil the apple juice and water together over a high heat until reduced and thick, then cool down fast. Once the apple sponge and the syrup have cooled, brush the syrup all over the sponge.
To make the apple ganache, bloom the gelatine in a small bowl of cold water. Heat the apple purée and lime juice together in a small saucepan, then add the gelatine, stirring until it has dissolved. Stir in the melted white chocolate.
To make the apple bavarois, bloom the gelatine in a small bowl of cold water. Warm the apple purée in a saucepan, then add the gelatine, stirring until it has dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Whisk the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl, adding the sugar in three batches. In a separate bowl, whip the fresh cream to soft peaks. Fold the meringue into the cooled purée mix, then fold in the whipped cream.
To assemble, you’ll need a 30cm springform cake tin for building up the cake in layers. First cut a 30cm circle from the coconut dacquoise so that it fits the base of the tin perfectly, then add the apple ganache and spread to cover in an even layer. Next add one-third of the apple bavarois. Cut the apple sponge into 2 x 30cm discs, then add one disc on top of the bavarois. Add another third of the bavarois, then the second disc of apple sponge. To finish, add the remaining third of the bavarois, then gently tap the tin on the countertop to ensure there are no air bubbles. Briefly dip a palette knife in hot water, then use it to smooth the top of the cake. Place the cake in the fridge overnight to set. The next day, use a hot towel or a kitchen blowtorch to warm the edge of the tin before you release the cake, then cut into slices.
To serve, spoon a line of finely crumbled shortbread onto a plate, then add a quenelle of apple sorbet on top, if liked. Add a slice of the cake alongside and serve immediately.
Durrus Cheese, Cumin Lavosh, Honey
4 x 40g portions of Durrus cheese
drizzle of local honey or honeycomb
For the lavosh:
400g plain flour
2 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground
good pinch of flaky sea salt
½ tsp freshly cracked black pepper
4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
200ml cold water
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line two large baking sheets with non-stick baking paper.
To make the lavosh, mix together the flour, toasted cumin seeds, salt and pepper in a large mixing bowl, then pour in the olive oil. Stir with a fork, then continue stirring while slowly adding the cold water. You might not need all the water – use just enough to form a ball of dough.
Roll out the dough into two large rectangles that are the same size as your baking sheets – you could even use a pasta machine to get it nice and thin. Place the dough onto the lined sheets, then drizzle with some olive oil and sprinkle with a little more sea salt and toasted cumin. Bake in the preheated oven for 15–20 minutes, until golden and crisp.
Allow to cool on a wire rack, then break the crackers into large irregular pieces.
To serve, place the small wedges of cheese directly on a piece of the lavosh, then add a drizzle of local honey or a piece of honeycomb.
Exploding Tree Chocolate Truffles
300ml double cream
knob of butter
300g Exploding Tree chocolate, at least 70% cocoa, finely chopped
pinch of salt
splash of whiskey
3 tbsp cocoa powder
Pour the cream into a heavy-based pan set over a medium heat. Bring to a simmer – don’t let it boil – then add the butter.
Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl, then pour over the hot cream mixture, whisking until the chocolate melts. Add a pinch of salt, then stir in the whiskey. Once the ganache is smooth, pour into a clean bowl and place in the fridge to chill for 2 hours.
Place the cocoa powder in a shallow bowl. Using a parisienne scoop briefly dipped in just-boiled water, scoop out balls of the firm chocolate, aiming for about 20g each, then roll in the cocoa powder.
Links of Interest
Not the full Irish - Katy McGuinness explores the true origins of 'Irish' foods.
The Irish Food Writers’ Guild is grateful to the Herbert Park Hotel for their ongoing generosity in hosting our regular meetings in their excellent facilities.
+353 (0)86 838 4401
2014 © Irish Food Writers' Guild. All Rights Reserved.