Real Bread Ireland & Real Bread Week
As the mainstream bakery sector gears up to promote their National Bread Week, Real Bread Ireland, the newly-established network of independent Irish craft bakers are set to unveil their own alternative programme of events, Real Bread Week (October 4th-10th). Real Bread Week is a programme of demos, talks, tastings and open days that are free and open to the general public and take place from October 4th to 10th at bakeries the length and breadth of the country.
Tartine Bakery, Dublin
Tartine Bakery will be holding an open day and demo on Tuesday 6th October from 4 to 7pm. Call in and find out how they prepare and bake their organic real breads.
Les Petites Douceurs, Galway
Ever wonder how real bread is made? Ever wonder who gets up at 3am to make it and WHY ? Lets learn together about the goodness of Real Bread. To Celebrate Real Bread Ireland Week, we have invited our baker Jeremy from Les Petit Douceurs into 56 Central
Riot Rye, Cloughjordan
Open day and Demo between 3-5pm, Tuesday 6th October. Visit Riot Rye’s unique wood-fired bakery, located in Cloughjordan Eco-village. Sample some beautiful sourdough breads and learn how to maintain your own sourdough starter. Bring a container if you’d like to take some starter home with you! Joe the baker will be on-hand to answer all questions
Scarpello & Co
Open Morning 9.30-12.30 pm Thursday 8th October The bakery will be open for anyone with an interest in Real Bread, come along & quiz the baker & inspect the wood oven. Because of the limited space & numbers we can accommodate please email firstname.lastname@example.org to let us know you are coming. Free Tasters
Bretzel Bakery, Dublin
We will be hosting a talk and tasting in the Bretzel bakery & Cafe on Thursday, 8th October from 7pm onwards as part of Real Bread Week. William will share his ideas on the sourdough process and discuss well-made bread with tastings and take home goodies for everyone in the audience!
Firehouse Bakery, Delgany Wicklow
We will be hosting an open day on Oct 7th from 9am to 12.30pm to celebrate realbreadireland and real bread week. We want to share our passion for baking with you, so we invite all those who knead some dough or sift some flour or simply enjoy the pleasure of eating real bread
Seagull Bakery, Tramore
Open Day on Tuesday 6th October. Come and see how a real bread baker needs very little space to supply the local community with real bread.
Arbutus Bread, Cork
Our open day will be Sunday 4th October, 1pm – 4pm. We will have a bread demo and also pizza making for the kids.
Ursa Minor Bakehouse, Ballycastle, Antrim
We will be opening the doors of our bakehouse from 10-12 on Monday 5th October to celebrate Real Bread week.
Call in and see what goes into making ‘real bread’.
Why Real Bread Ireland?
Real Bread Ireland came about because of concerns at the increasing industrialisation in the baking industry over the last 50 years and a lack of transparency about all the hidden ingredients that now go into most modern industrially-produced loaves, often leading to a nutritionally inferior product full of unidentified additives as there is no legal requirement to list these additives. In some cases, this is even leading to or compounding very real health issues. Real Bread Ireland, a newly established network of some of Ireland’s leading independent craft bakers, wish to change all this by promoting a return to traditional baking techniques and values and the production of wholesome, healthy and nutritious bread.
Real Bread Ireland promotes a return to wholesome, tasty and nutritious bread
Real Bread Ireland’s aim is to encourage all of us to eat better bread, whether we buy it or bake it ourselves and RBI would like to see the standard and quality of bread raised throughout Ireland. Many of the traditional techniques have been lost over the last four or five decades with the increasing industrialisation of the breadmaking process, which has lead to a lowering of standards and quality of the bread we consume every day. What’s more, those decades have seen a corresponding rise in health-related issues surrounding wheat and gluten intolerances and many believe this is no coincidence.
What is the definition of ‘Real Bread’?
RBI believe the gold standard to be what they define as ‘Real Bread’, a loaf of Real Bread containing nothing more than flour, water and salt with the addition of sufficient time for natural proving as nature intended. This results in a wholesome, tasty and nutritious loaf and with absolutely no hidden additives. RBI do not wish to preach or to tell anyone what they can or can’t eat but simply feel each and every one of us is entitled to know exactly what we are eating and be able to an informed choice when it comes to our Daily Bread.
What goes into Real Bread ?
Real bread, in its purest form, is bread made without the use of processing aids or any other artificial additive. Real Bread is simply flour, water and fermentation (either by adding yeast or using natural fermentation) and salt. Other natural additions include nuts, seeds, herbs, butter, egg or milk.
Real bread is bread made without flour improvers, dough conditioners, preservatives, chemical leavening (baking powder, Bi-carbonate of soda), any other artificial additive or the use of pre-mixed ingredients.
Who is behind Real Bread Ireland?
Real Bread Ireland is a group of artisan bakers initially brought together in an entirely voluntary capacity by a shared belief in the Real Bread ethos, with a desire to promote Real Bread, educate the consumer and fellow bakers, and improve the quality of bread being produced and consumed within the Island of Ireland.
Since the initial meeting of six bakers in January 2015, the network has grown rapidly and currently numbers over 35 professional bakers as members from right across the 32 counties of Ireland, along with associated members. All current members are listed on the RBI website at http://realbreadireland.org/members-and-a-map/
Real Bread Ireland is not an elite or exclusive club
Real Bread Ireland is not an elite or exclusive club but rather a group of like-minded individuals who have come together voluntarily to align themselves under a single flag, to promote good baking and real bread. For them, the cause will always be greater than any individual or group of individuals and they are very keen to add fellow artisan bakers to their number as soon as possible to contribute to the process of promotion and education.
Long-term aims of Real Bread Ireland
The long-term aim of Real bread Ireland is to develop a membership-based network of bakers who work within the parameters of the real bread ethos along with an affiliated membership for ‘supporters’. Right now professional and public education, raising awareness and a total commitment to a policy of complete transparency are the primary objectives. Becoming involved in community and social baking projects is also another ambition that is very firmly on the agenda, working in partnership with local community organisations.
Who can participate or join Real Bread Ireland?
Real Bread Ireland welcome with open arms the participation of consumers, domestic bakers and peers in the field of commercial artisan baking and all other likeminded fans of Real Bread. Real Bread Ireland are especially keen to welcome professional artisan bakers willing to share knowledge and educate their peers as well as home bakers.
Patrick Ryan, Baker/Proprietor, Firehouse Bakery, Delgany, Co. Wicklow and Heir Island, West Cork. Author: Bread Revolution
Photo: Roger Kenny
Ask any of the world’s top chefs what they think is the most important food trend of the moment, and the answer will not be farm to fork or foraging; it is food waste. And like any worthy cause, it is easy to nod dutifully, voice our support and then do very little about it. It takes big guns to get the media to sit up and take notice of the issues that we all pay lip service to, but glaze over after repeated exposure. But Massimo Bottura, the chef behind Osteria Francescana in Modena, ranked number two on the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best list, has done exactly that. Having opened the Refettorio Ambrosiano (Ambrosian Refectory) – a soup kitchen to feed Milan’s poor using food waste generated from the pavilions of Expo Milan 2015 – he put food waste solidly on the culinary agenda. And he did not do it alone. With high profile names including Ferran and Albert Adria, Rene Redzepi, Alain Ducasse, Daniel Humm, Gastón Acurio and our own Mark Moriarty taking turns cooking in the kitchen, feeding the poor of the area and not the world’s gastronauts, the project is starting to look like something much bigger, with visiting chefs inspired and planning to open similar projects in New York and Lima.
“I see great chefs leaving the Refectory, the soup kitchen, with tears in their eyes,” says Bottura. “Gastón Acurio is telling everyone that it is the most incredible experience he has had in his life, he wants to do something similar in the poorest quarters in Lima. This is what it’s about. For me, it all starts with a fight against waste. We are going to be the ambassadors of this new ethical way.”
Zero waste is not just a good intention, it has become a movement; a push-back against the industrial age, processed food, and farming practices that are driven by industry rather than the welfare of our health. And increasingly, social action is dominating the food conversations of the world’s leading chefs. Douglas McMaster opened the UK’s first zero waste restaurant in Brighton last September; Copenhagen has No Waste Mondays; France recently passed a law banning supermarkets from destroying unsold food, San Francisco plans to have zero-waste by 2020; and René Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen, Alex Atala of DOM in São Paulo and Ben Shewry of Attica in Melbourne have installed the revolutionary Closed Loop composter which incorporates microbial technology which reduces organic waste by 90 per cent in 24 hours and converts it into an odourless compost suitable for putting back into the soil. Added to that, there are rumours that Acurio is contemplating a bid for the presidency in Peru and it is well documented that Bottura has been approached on many occasions to run for mayor of Modena.
“Social responsibility is something that is going to be more important every year,” says Bottura. “At the moment, you have this question, how do we feed the planet? To feed the planet, for me, the answer is first of all, to fight the waste. If you look at the figures from the FAO [Food and Agricultural Organisation of the United Nations], 1.3 billion tonnes of food is wasted every year, a fourth of which would be enough to feed all those in need, and this is not acceptable. We have to make visible, the things that are invisible. So from a very ripe dark banana, to an ugly tomato. From leftover breadcrumbs to a cheese, you can create incredible things. And I’m living this kind of experience.”
While Expo Milan, which finished at the end of October, has put the global spotlight on food with its theme “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life”, closer to home, the Irish Food Writers’ Guild launched their first Social Responsibility Awards on Wednesday 14th October in recognition of the contribution made by Irish food businesses, non-profit organisations, and individuals in furthering social responsibility in the food sector.
Bia Food Initiative (BiaFi), a food bank set up in Cork in 2014 which facilitates the transfer of surplus food from food-related businesses to charities, was awarded the IFWG Social Responsibility Award for 2015. And Dublin Simon Community’s Soup Run, which was founded by a group of Trinity and UCD students in 1969, who began by providing much-needed soup and sandwiches to people who were sleeping rough in Dublin city centre and still goes out 365 nights of the year, was considered by the judging panel to have contributed at such an outstanding level that it was immediately entered into the IFWG Social Responsibility Award Hall of Fame.
“The Bia Food Initiative started as a concept back in 2012,” says Karen Horgan, project manager at the BiaFi in Cork. “A working group from industry, the charity sector and the environmental sector got together, recognising that there was a need for a safe and secure avenue for surplus food redistribution in Ireland. It took from then till 2014 to get the funding together and the plans in place, to turn it into a physical reality. So we opened a warehouse in Cork in July 2014. We’ve been in operation for the last 15 months and at this stage we’ve redistributed 280 tonnes of surplus food.”
Companies within the Irish food sector, including retailers, distributors, food growers, food producers and food manufacturers, have signed up as registered donors, and when they have a surplus within their process, they put a call into BiaFi and deliver their surplus to the warehouse where it is broken down and redistributed to charities. “At the moment, we distribute to about 53 charities in the Munster region but we’re due to go nationwide at the end of November with another depot in Dublin and one in Galway,” says Horgan. “We have no idea what we’re going to get from week to week. We get different types of donations. We have a big fridge and a big freezer here that the JP McManus Fund provided for us, so we get in yoghurt, cheese and meat which we turnover very quickly and we get some ambient product which we can store for longer periods of time and drip feed into the charities. We also get donations of breakfast cereals from Kellogg every month so we send them out as they are required by the charities. Sometimes we get in food in big bulk which we can freeze and send out to the charities in a controlled period over the weeks.”
The charities supplied by BiaFi include children’s breakfast clubs and after school clubs, St Vincent de Paul, which distributes food to families in need in their particular area and hostels which include Penny Dinners, drug and alcohol abuse centres and the Simon Community in Cork.
“The Soup Run is operated by dedicated teams of over 100 part-time volunteers who walk the streets in all weather; offering soup, sandwiches, tea and a good chat if so desired, to people who are homeless around the city,” says Sam McGuinness, CEO of Dublin Simon Community. “For people who are going through the most difficult times of their lives, accessing basic needs such as food, clothing and the chance to see a doctor, is often the first step that they take on the journey out of homelessness. Our volunteers use these steps to engage people, to establish the trust they may have lost through years of fear and vulnerability.”
The IFWG also awarded commendations to two enterprise – the Flanagan’s Fields Project, which is a community garden in Rialto and also houses Dublin’s first geodesic dome which enables the people who garden there to extend the growing season by using state-of-the-art technology; and Healthy Food for All, an all-island community and school food initiative that aims to alleviate food poverty in low-income communities by fostering positive changes in nutrition and the healthy eating behaviours of families and young people. “In the beginning, a lot of people were wondering about vandalism, but there has been absolutely nothing,” says Eilish O’Carroll, the chairman of the garden at Flanagan’s Fields. “It is very well used in the community by the people from the old Fatima area as well as people who have moved into the community over the last 10 years. UNESCO do some placements in the garden and we have two fulltime TUS workers, who are long term unemployed, and that has been very successful because all of them have got work afterwards. It has been really good for integrating the community and been a major catalyst for change in the area.”
Sinead Keenan from Healthy Food for All has seen a huge impact from their work on their schools’ project. “The government has a fund of €139 million for school food projects, yet there are 100 Deis schools which aren’t able to avail of this funding because either they don’t have the facilities or the staff. So they need to know that they can draw on school completion programmes or community supports. And we provide them with that information and guidelines for setting up breakfast clubs,” she says. “In schools where breakfast clubs have been set up, the feedback has been phenomenal. In a north county Dublin school where we ran a pilot scheme, the principal was telling us about a child who was regularly coming late to school, but once they’d set up the breakfast club, he was first to the gate at five to eight. He’s having his egg and toast or whatever is available on that day. The school staff really see the benefit to the pupils and there’s a huge level of buy-in.”
“At the Irish Food Writers’ Guild, we felt that we could shine a bit of a spotlight on some of the projects and the enterprises that are tackling food in the context of social responsibility. We wanted to educate ourselves as a guild about this activity and then, the public at large,” says Aoife Carrigy, chairman of the Irish Food Writers’ Guild. “When we were judging the awards, one of the things we really liked about the Bia Food Initiative is that there’s a dual purpose there; they’re tackling food waste as well as food poverty. They also have a very ambitious scope; they have a warehouse in Cork and they’re also opening ones in Tallaght and Galway, so that sort of nationwide scale is very impressive.
“And we were also impressed by the simplicity and clarity of their concept. They are very much the middle man, providing a logistical solution for retailers and producers who have large quantities of food that they could provide to charities, but charities often aren’t in a position to take those quantities, or the retailers aren’t in a position to distribute them over a broad geographical base. It’s a simple but effective solution to the problem. With Simon Community, we thought it was so important to recognise what they have been doing over the years, how they go out every night on the soup run. The value is so much more than the nutritional value, it’s all the human connection around that.
“Our plan is the IFWG Social Responsibility Awards will continue as annual awards, running in parallel to our food awards which run in spring. The important thing is, we do accept nominations from the public for these awards, which we don’t for the food awards, so it’s a way of engaging and we hope to build on that. In terms of the kind of people we’re looking at, we believe that it’s important to look at small communities as much as we do at the large scale initiatives and projects. Every initiative has an impact.”
Massimo Bottura, the chef behind Osteria Francescana in Modena.
Photo: Corinna Hardgrave
Links of Interest
Michelle Darmody: Baking with almonds
Recipes this week are orange blossom and almond cake, almond macaroons and sunken prune tarts.
The Irish Food Writers’ Guild is grateful to the Herbert Park Hotel for their ongoing generosity in hosting our regular meetings in their excellent facilities.
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